Crokinole Board
Instructions
Brief Overview
The main board was cut from 1/2" plywood and an iron on veneer was added to the edge. The center hole was cut 3/8" deep so a 1/8" custom plug could be made to glue in and still leave the 1/4" required depth. Plug was cut from hard wood so the engraving would be much sharper than V carving in the plywood. The pegs were made form 3/8" dowel rod and the holes cut to the exact size for a nice fit.
The circular grid was added after several coats of water based varnish so the surface was fairly smooth. I used a permanent marker to draw it which was loaded in the pen holder I made for the X-Carve. If a mistake is made rubbing alcohol can be used to wipe off the marker but the following coats of varnish seal it from future damage.
The recommend finish is to be glass smooth. I made the mistake of using Red Oak plywood and it took 22 heavy sprayed coats of varnish (sanding after every two coats) to fill the grain texturing! Should have used birch plywood and half the coats would have been fine. Progressed through 220, 320, 400, 600 wet sandpaper to smooth the surface. Used mineral spirits as as the fluid (0nce to 400 dry sanding does not work well as paper quickly clogs)
After the sand paper I then buffed it with automotive rubbing compound and then finished with automotive wax for a super smooth and slick surface.
Estimated time: 1 minutes
Comments
Hello Ray Macke, for some reason this is not showing the full project is only showing one circle, can you please share the file again. Thank you,
Paulo Munoz · January 10, 2019
Hello Ray, Thank you for posting this. I would like to know how you made and attached the outer wall/ring. Thank you, Susan
susan shekels · October 14, 2024
The outer rim was a lamination of four 1/8" x 2" 96" slats. The first layer was glued and nailed (small nails) to the edge of 1/2" plywood and then the other 3 layers were one at a time glued to the first. The final length of each slat was hand cut to butt up against the other end. more to follow
Ray Macke · October 14, 2024
This requires a lot of clamps and is somewhat tedious. If you don't mind a painted outer rim, I would consider trying a 3/8" to 1/2" thick piece ripped from a solid PVC board - the type sold at the big box stores as exterior trim. I believe it could be bent smoothly around the base.
Ray Macke · October 14, 2024
. I also would suggest a scarf joint rather than a straight butt at the ends. A 45 degree cut would probably work but s steeper angle would be better and yield a smoother joint. Plastic pipe cement for PVC should work to hold the joint.
Ray Macke · October 14, 2024